Steve Tvedten's "The Bug Stops Here"
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 Be sure all doors, windows and screens fit tightly. Cracks and other openings from the outside (especially near ground level) that provide access into the building should be sealed. Also, caulk or otherwise seal cracks and crevices inside the building that provide hiding places. Use a strong vacuum or roach sticky traps or boric acid baits to control areas, e.g., behind or under heavy furniture and appliances or in other inaccessible areas. Weeds and debris around the outside of the building should be closely mowed and/or removed to eliminate their normal habitats. Change outside lighting to sodium vapor lights or yellow incandescent lights that are less attractive to crickets (and other insects). Remove feeding and breeding sites outside. Garbage and other refuse that serves as food should be stored in containers with tight lids and elevated off the ground on platforms or bricks.

Cricket infestations are usually seasonal. Most often problems occur during the fall as evenings become cooler and the insects seek to enter your building for warmth and shelter. Because of this, occasional vacuuming or applications of diluted Safe Solutions, Inc. Enzyme Cleaner with Peppermint or baits containing 3% - 5% borax, food-grade DE or duct tape (placed sticky-side up) are all that is usually all that is needed indoors for adequate cricket control. Crickets require a steady supply of fresh water and will drown easily in a shallow dish with a few pieces of dry dog food put in a shot glass in the middle of the saucer. Grasshoppers can be controlled outside with semaspore baits which spread an infection from which they cannot recover.

You can make your own bait with corn meal and (1% - 5%) sodium borate or borax or food-grade DE. Try spraying diluted borax or food-grade DE directly on the problem area/bait/pest.

Be careful not to contaminate anything (especially plants) with borax. Remember that we have quickly and safely controlled crickets in the lab and field simply with 1 oz. per quart of water Safe Solutions, Inc. Enzyme Cleaner with Peppermint. You can also steam clean/kill them. Routinely mow your yard.

A thorough inspection should be made and properly recorded first. Correctly identify the species. Note all in infestations and conditions and conditions conducive. Vacuum up any invaders inside or outside. Cricket control begins outdoors with the reduction or elimination of moist harborage near the structure, such as removal of bricks, firewood, stone, lumber, wood piles and other debris. Routinely mow your yard and keep all of your shrubs and gardens free of weeds and organic debris. Tightly seal and routinely clean garbage cans with Safe Solutions, Inc. Enzyme Cleaner with Peppermint and borax; stand them on bricks or blocks (off the ground). Repair all leaking plumbing and moisture problems inside and outside your building.

Crawl spaces should be well ventilated and dry; the installation of a dehumidifier and/or a poly/vapor barrier and vents will help. Seal all entry points such as door thresholds by installing doorsweeps; caulk or seal or screen holes in masonry, around pipes, wires, facia, soffits, vents, trims, windows and doors and all visible cracks and crevices outside and inside. Eliminate all leaking plumbing, route downspouts away from the foundation. Lightly dust with talcum or medicated body powder or finely ground calcium chloride. Maintain proper grade drainage, install vapor barriers in crawls and install air conditioning dehumidifiers and/or fans.

Some crickets, e.g., field and house and sometimes ground crickets, are attracted to shut them off or change outdoor lighting to less attractive sodium vapor lamps or yellow bulbs. Place glue boards in and around entrances. Use 5% food-grade DE or borax and molasses baits, but try baking soda, Comet®, talcum powder or medicated body powder first. Remember, crickets can be found anywhere, especially where food, clothes, linens and books are stored and it is especially vital not to contaminate these items with any toxic poisons. It is far better to take the time to use silicone caulk, patching plaster, mortar, cement, foam insulation, etc. to permanently seal all cracks, crevices and other openings; to use a hammer and nails or screw driver and screws to permanently tighten all siding, trim, molding, framing, etc.; plumbing tools to correct all leaks and to clean up and permanently remove all cricket populations, harborages, food and moisture sources than to poison even one person...besides, you have to do this maintenance eventually anyway! Clean or simply spray infested areas with Safe Solutions, Inc. Enzyme Cleaner with Peppermint (1 oz. per quart of water), or a steam cleaner and/or borax (½ cup per gallon of water).

Spray crickets with Safe Solutions, Inc. Enzyme Cleaner with Peppermint (1 oz. per quart of water) and they will die quickly. You can make your own baits using any food source the crickets seem to prefer, but these baits must be placed only where people, pets and/or wildlife can not reach them. Try corn meal sprayed or mixed with a water solution containing 1% - 5% borax or lightly dusted with food-grade DE and place in out of the way areas - away from people, pets and wildlife. Sprinkle baking soda, Comet®, talcum or medicated body powder in infested areas- vacuum everything up when control is accomplished.

Diluted Safe Solutions, Inc. Enzyme Cleaner with Peppermint enzymes at a rate of 1 oz. per quart of water kills 100% of the crickets in about 10 seconds. Dish soap at 1 oz. per quart of water kills them all in 35 seconds. Vinegar in water (at 4 oz. per quart) kills crickets in about a minute. Salt water will kill about 50% in about a minute. Lemon juice in water (4 oz. per quart) will kill about 80% in about a minute.

Good luck with the noisy cockroach! If you are still having problems with crickets, &read The Best Control© or The Best Control II© on CD-ROM.


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